Laminate Countertops Accessories / Finishing Options

Ultra-Top Waterfall Edge | Noir Envision 7500-58
Please Note: Accessories may vary by fabricator. Please check availability.

End Cap

A piece of laminate used to finish off or cap the exposed end of the countertop. The end cap is made of one contoured piece without any seam.

End Splash

A separate piece of laminated wood that sits on the edge of the countertop and flows up the edge of the wall to create a backsplash effect on the sides where a countertop meets a wall.

Cutout

The actual cutout placement in the top is given by measuring from the right or the left end of the top to the centerline of the cutout. This applies to both sink and range cutouts.

Butt Joint

A front-to-back seam required for any top over 144” long where two straight pieces of countertop are joined. Whenever possible, butt joints are positioned at the end of the countertop.

Standard Miter

(90° corner turn) – A standard miter cut is a 45°cut on one section—the “leg”—of a L-shaped or U-shaped countertop. Two 45° standard miter cuts on matching corner ends of two legs will create 2 equal opposing angles. These join together to form a 90° corner turn for a L-shaped or U-shaped countertop.

Y-Miter

A “Y” miter is the result of adding an extension piece up to 22” long onto a countertop to make it longer than 144”. The added piece looks like a “Y” on the mitered end.

45° Corner Pie

45° corner without shelf, or diagonal pie cut corner, is a triangular corner insert used when the kitchen design has a diagonal corner sink or has a lazy susan corner cabinet. State the size of diagonal cabinet when ordering countertop.

45° Corner with Shelf

A triangular corner with shelf used when the kitchen design would be complemented by a shelf in the corner. State the size of the diagonal cabinet when ordering the countertop.

Dog Leg Miter

A special custom cut miter to extend the backsplash to the edge of a bar top or to miter two tops of different widths together.

Note: Dog legs must stop short of the double roll bar. This edge is to allow for the curve of the outside roll – usually 1” – 1 ¼”.

We do not offer the dog leg miter in the Dura-Top.

22 ½” Miter – Standard 45° Turn

A 22 ½” cut on the matching ends of two countertops that, when assembled, will create a 45° corner turn. This will create an angled shape countertop layout.

Note: These are equal opposing cuts. If you cut the left end on one top, you will cut the right end on the other top.

Angled End Base

The countertop is cut to fit 24” x 24” x 24” angled base cabinets.

Banjo

(Square-Edge only) – This is a special notch cut for vanities, which provides a ledge over the toilet.

Notch

A notch is a cut into a countertop to allow it to fit around a wall or similar object. Be sure to show exact dimensions of the notch to be cut and placement of the notch on the top.

Window Notch

A window notch is a cut into the backsplash of a countertop to allow the countertop to fit under a window. Please show exact dimensions of cut when ordering—where to start it on the backsplash along with the dimensions.

Note: The notch is always edged unless specified “no edging.”

Single Notch with Backsplash

A cut into the backsplash of a countertop to allow the countertop to fit around a wall or similar object.

Clip Radius

The rounding of the corner of a countertop. Clip radius corners can be done on all styles of countertops except Dura-Top (self-edge, see ”Single Radius”). The dimensions are 2” towards the end cap and 1” towards the front nose.

Clip Corner

A diagonal cut to the corner of a top, which can be done on all styles of countertops. Minimum is a 2” face clip.

180° Radius

A true 180° (double) radius works best on a Dura-Top (self-edge).

Single Radius – 3” thru 12”

The single radius is most common on a flat-deck or bar top. On the Dura-Top (self-edge), the edging flows from the end of the top around the front nose. On all other styles, the edging stops on the front nose. Minimum is 3” radius.

Sweep Radius – 3” on 26” Bars – 6” on 36” Bars

A soft sweep to the end of a bar top. The arc is 3” on 26” bars and 6” on 36” bars.

Bump Out

A 3” bump out applied to the front of a countertop is used when a center cabinet is deeper than the two cabinets on the sides. For example, with a cabinet that is 24” x 27” x 24”, the bump out will cover the 27” cabinet.

Solid Build-Up

¾” particleboard applied to the bottom side of a substrate that is faced with high pressure decorative laminate. It adds stability and helps prevent warping.

Solid Build-up is an excellent choice for the underside of a bar or peninsula overhang.

Backer Sheet

Backer consists of layers of treated kraft paper pressed together. It is then applied to the bottom side of a substrate that is faced with high pressure decorative laminate. It adds dimensional stability, helps prevent warping, provides a smooth finished look, and is less porous than raw particleboard.

Backer is an excellent choice for the underside of flat-deck tops, bar or peninsula overhangs, or above dishwashers.

UV Fill

UV coatings are specific formulations used mainly as clear coats and sealers on wood products. Hartson-Kennedy postformed countertops are available with an optional UV coated particleboard core. The coating is applied to the back of the countertop core as a moisture barrier. The main difference with this type of coating is how the coating is cured or dried. UV coatings have special ingredients that react almost instantaneously with UV radiation. As a result, UV coatings are extremely tough, durable, and long-lasting.